Alternative Carnaval

 

Being a Jew, I don’t really know all that much about Christianity. But I know that Easter is a really big holiday, and lent is somehow involved with that holiday, although lent begins 40 days before Easter (mas o menos). Well lent (just speculating here) means that you have to give up something that is important to you, and therefore must commence with a big party. In some countries like New Orleans (okay some cities), this celebration takes the form of Mardi Gras. For some reason the rest of the glamorous USA has not caught on to this incredible tradition (I hear it is incredible but I’ve never been myself). And in many other countries around the world, the beginning of lent is marked by carnaval.

In Spain, the biggest carnaval celebration is in Cadiz (I think). Many people from Sevilla flock to Cadiz to celebrate (to drink on the street and dress up in costumes, much like adult Halloween in the States). Now I really love dressing up. I have always loved Halloween and costume parties in general, always calls for a good time… 

But for some reason, neither this year nor last, the festivities in Cadiz haven’t really caught my attention. A costume party YES A costume party in a plaza filled with so many people that you can’t move around and its 45 degrees outside NAHHH.

I didn’t want to give up on the dream completely, so, like that time I went to Belize for Christmas instead of going home (alternative winter break) I did what I am calling "alternative carnaval."

Carnaval goes on for two weekends. During the day, it is quite similar to what I imagine happens at night except they also have the chirigotas all around the city. Chirigotas are comical musical groups that sing about current events in Spain: the president, the crisis etc. Given that they sing in Spanish, about very topical issues, and use colloquialisms, I don’t completely understand the chirigotas, but I appreciate them for their cultural importance. 

a chirigota

Last Sunday, one week ago, I went to Cadiz for the day to soak in this cultural experience and the sun. Cadiz is a city right on the beach, so on a clear day, even though its not quite beach weather yet, it is a great place to spend the day. The trains from Sevilla to Cadiz during Carnaval are a hot commodity. Since it was a last minute decision, I didn’t have many options in terms of which trains to take, so in the end I was only there for the afternoon. Not complaining though, went with two American friends and we had a good time (well cant speak for other people but I know I enjoyed myself).

We “dressed up” (painted our faces) to be a part of the festival. 

When we got off the train in Cadiz, we walked into the center of town and joined the party. The chirigotas were singing in corners in front of the cathedral, in the main plaza and on the main road that follows the beach. At some points there were so many people on one street (one super small ancient European city street) that I wasn’t walking, I was just gliding along with the crowd. I did feel so claustrophobic at one point that I told myself “I am never ever going to do this again.”

But then I just started thinking about how comical all this was and I couldn’t stop laughing (maybe the beers I had drank helped a little). There were adults and children of all ages (and I mean all ages, grandparents included) dressed up in costumes varying from Batman to policemen to farm animals roaming the streets, drinking beers and cokes and snacking on bocadillos and pipas (all typical street festivities in Spain involve beer and sandwiches and/or sunflower seeds). Despite my spells of claustrophobia, I realized I was having a lot of fun.

We spent a good portion of the day sitting on a ledge in front of this:

So I would say it was a good day. I think I am always going to be a little curious about what the evening carnaval parties are like, but I think I am okay with leaving it as a curiosity.